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The position of consumer units and electric meters differs between house types, but your consumer unit and electricity meter will often be found near the front door of your house. You will have been shown the location of these during your demonstration tour.

How does it work?

All power circuits within your home, including the garage, are wired through a residual current device (RCD), which will trip should a defect be identified in the earthing system. If the trip operates, it may not necessarily be caused by a fault in your home and therefore you should check that all appliances are safe. Under the hinged front cover there’s a row of switches, each controlling a different aspect of the electricity in your home. Each switch will be labelled to show which area of the home it controls. You may notice the row of switches is split into two groups, each ending with a slightly different looking switch and a small button. These are RCDs, devices that immediately cut off the electricity supply if a person comes into contact with a live electrical connection. Knowing what these different switches are for will help you to know what to do in the event of an electrical fault. You can turn off your consumer unit using the main red switch on the unit.

Electric meter

Reading your meters will ensure that you achieve more accurate energy bills. When you read your meter, make sure to read the numbers from left to right and ignore the last figure, which is often in a red box.

Helpful hints and safety tips

Use a cable detector to locate cable runs within your property to avoid nailing through them
If you plug an electric tool for use in your garden into one of the socket outlets in your home, always use a power breaker device between the tools plug and the socket. The socket outlet, where fitted in your garage, has a power breaker (RCD). There is no need to use an additional one
Never use an appliance you believe to be faulty
It’s important to always read the manufacturer’s guidelines
When wiring appliances use the correct rating of fuse and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines
Remember to switch off electricity on your consumer unit if any work is being done on an electric circuit
Never use a portable electrical appliance in the bathroom. Personal appliances that plug into a purpose made shaver socket are the exception
The failure of a bulb may cause a circuit breaker to trip, which is normal. The electrical circuits in your home are protected by a circuit breaker
Security bulbs are very delicate. Please leave in bubble wrap until installed as a finger print on the crystal can cause the bulb to blow

What to do if you experience an electrical problem

Losing the electrical supply to your home can be frustrating and even alarming if you’re suddenly left in the dark. Normally though, it’s nothing serious. Here’s our step-by-step guide to what to do:

Finding the fault

If you lose electricity in your home, the first thing to do is check your consumer unit:

Check your consumer unit to see if any of the switches are in the ‘off’ position.
If the main switch and RCDs are all switched on, the most likely cause is a power cut. Check whether your neighbours have power and, if necessary, call your supplier for more information.
If some switches are off, start by turning on the main switch (on the far right). Then turn on any RCDs that have flipped to the off position.
You may find that one of the RCD switches immediately flips back to the off position. This indicates a fault in one of the circuits controlled by the switches to the left of that RCD.
If this happens, switch off all of the labelled switches to the left of the RCD that continues to switch itself off (or ‘trip’).
Now switch on the RCD in question and, one at a time, turn on the switches until the RCD trips again, or until you encounter a switch that flips itself off as soon as you turn it on. You now know which circuit is causing the problem.
You can now re-enable all of the switches in your consumer unit, apart from the one you have identified to be at fault.

Discovering the cause

Now that you’ve found the fault you can investigate what’s behind it.

If it’s a lighting circuit causing the problem, or a circuit for any built-in appliance such as a hob or electric shower, you will need the help of an electrician.However, if the switch controls a room circuit (i.e. one that supplies power to wall sockets), you can take the same approach again to finding the cause of the problem.
Unplug all electrical equipment from the room or rooms controlled by that circuit breaker, then switch it back on and plug your equipment back in as it was before, one device at a time, until the power trips again.
You now know which device is causing your circuit breakers to trip.

Common Problems

My lights won’t turn on

It might seem obvious, but make sure that the bulb hasn’t blown and tripped your consumer unit into the ‘off’ position. If this has, simply move the switch to the ‘on’ position and power should return.

One of my sockets isn’t working

Firstly check that all the switches in your consumer unit are in the ‘on’ position. Test the appliance in an alternative socket to ensure that the fuse within the plug hasn’t blown. If this appears to be the case, refer to the appliance manufacturer’s guide.

Zoned central heating

Zoned central heating means you can set different temperatures in separate parts of your home, or have the heating set to come on at different times in different areas, to suit your lifestyle. In larger homes where this is fitted you’ll find two separate programmers on walls in different areas of the house.

Thermostats

You can regulate the temperature of your home’s central heating by using wall-mounted thermostats. Once your thermostat is set it will activate your radiators, allowing you to regulate the temperature in each room using the thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs).

Radiators

Another way to regulate the temperature in specific areas of your home is with the thermostatic valves on your radiators. These will only be found in rooms that don’t have a wall thermostat.

By using TRVs you can control the temperature of individual radiators. TRVs are attached to the side of the radiator and alter the flow of hot water depending on the room’s temperature.

To set your TRV:

Set your thermostat to the required temperature.
The TRV will be numbered one to five, with one being the coolest setting and five the hottest. It’s best to set most of your TRVs to three, but your bedrooms at two.
There will also be a frost setting, marked ‘*’. When this is set the valve will automatically open when the surrounding temperature drops to 7℃.
Let your whole house warm up for an hour and then check the temperatures in each room. You can adjust the TVRs up or down to suit.
If you want a specific room to heat up it’s best to turn up the TRV in that room, but if you want it to get generally warmer throughout the house, turn your thermostat up.
Always ensure radiators are not blocked by curtains or furniture, as this will affect their performance.

Automated adjustment

Your central heating programmer may automatically adjust the time to accommodate the start and end of British Summer Time (BST). Please refer to the quick guide (which will have been provided to you when you moved into your new home) on how to use and adjust your programmer. If you move into your home during wintertime, try to avoid having the heating on too high, as a constant even temperature will minimise shrinkage.

Servicing

To ensure your warranty remains valid, you must service your boiler annually. You can do this either via the manufacturer, an independent fully qualified Gas Safe registered plumber or a qualified electrician depending on the system installed. It is essential that you keep a record of the service history to ensure that the warranty remains valid. If you do not service your boiler annually, this will render your warranty for the appliance null and void, so it is worth setting a reminder in your calendar to have your boiler serviced.

Re-pressuring your combination boiler

If your combination boiler loses pressure it will be less efficient and may not function properly. There’s a pressure gauge in the control panel under the boiler, if it’s below the 1.0 bar, you’ll need to re-pressurise. You can re-pressurise your boiler simply by following these steps:

Turn off the boiler.
Find the chrome valves with black taps under the boiler, one on a pipe just off centre and the other on a pipe dropping from the boiler to the right. Ensure the taps are at 90 degrees to the pipe. If the braided flexible pipe is attached to both valves, go to point five.
Remove the two chrome ‘blanks’ from the valve outlets, turning anti-clockwise to loosen.
Find the braided, flexible pipe (filling loop) next to the boiler. Attach this to both valves by tightening the end connectors clockwise.
Keep turning until they are tight.
Turn the black valve on the right-hand valve 90 degrees so the handle is in line with the pipe.
Turn the black handle on the left-hand valve through 90 degrees. Check the pressure gauge, as you’re now re-pressurising the system. Keep going until the pressure is between 1.0 and 2.0 bars (1.5 is ideal). At this point, turn the valve handle back and likewise with the right valve.
Turn the heating back on and remove the filling loop.

If you need to re-pressurise more than once in a three-month period, there may be a leak.

Re-pressuring your hot water cylinder

Re-pressurising your hot water cylinder is quite simple. Here’s how:

Turn off your boiler.
Find the red expansion chamber at eye level, attached to the wall near the cylinder.
Find the chrome valves with black taps below the chamber. Turn the taps at 90 degrees across the pipes. If the braided flexible pipe (filling loop) is attached to both valves, go to point six.
Remove the two chrome ‘blanks’ on the valve outlets, turn anti-clockwise to loosen.
Find the filling loop attached to, or next to, one or both valve ends. Attach it to both valve ends by turning the end connectors clockwise until they are tight.
Turn the black valve closest to the pressure gauge so it’s in line with the pipe.
Turn the black handle on the other end through 90 degrees, constantly checking the needle on the pressure gauge, as you’re now re-pressurising your system. When it’s between 1.0 and 2.0 bars (1.5 is ideal), turn the valve handle back to its original position.
Repeat with the right-hand valve.
Turn the boiler back on. Remove the filling loop and replace the caps.

The way that radiators work is by convection. The radiator heats up the air around it and, as hot air rises, this heated air rises up and draws cooler air into and through the radiator from below. These currents of air gradually heat up a whole room, so it is vital that air can flow easily through and around a radiator in order for it to heat a room efficiently.

What should I do if the radiator isn’t heating up properly?

It is important to firstly check that the thermostatic valves on your radiators are set correctly.

If you’re still feeling chilly with the central heating turned up high, check your radiators. If they have cold spots, especially at the top, it’s likely you have air trapped in the system and that you need to bleed your radiators.

How to bleed your radiators

You should always turn your heating off before you bleed your radiators. It can sometimes get a bit messy so it’s a good idea to put down some towels or plastic sheets to protect your carpets and floors.

You’ll need a radiator key, which you attach to the square insert at the centre of the valve at the top of one end of the radiator. (Some radiators will require a flat-blade screwdriver instead)

Turn off your central heating and allow the radiator to cool
Find the bleed valve, which is normally at the top on one end, and put the cloth directly below it to catch minor drips
Put the key into the valve and turn anti-clockwise until you hear a slight hiss of air. Once the hiss turns to a gurgle or )water starts to escape, close the valve
Retighten the valve by turning clockwise and turn your central heating back on
Following this you may need to re-pressurise your hot water cylinder or combi boiler

What if my radiator is leaking?

If you notice any leaks at all around your radiator you should:

Immediately close both valves on the radiator to isolate it
Open the bleed valve to release the pressure, which should slow down or even stop the leak

Radiator care

There are a few easy steps you can take to get the best possible use from your radiators. And remember, if your radiators are less efficient than they could be, your boiler has to work harder.

Don’t place furniture too close to radiators. Not only can this damage your furnishings, but it’ll also stop the heat circulating properly.
Don’t dry clothes on your radiators, as it can cause condensation and rust.
Check your radiators once a month for cold spots, which could mean you need to bleed them.
Avoid placing wet towels on radiators, use heated towel rails if possible.

The very best thing you can do for your home’s plumbing is also the easiest: maintain it. Toilets are often the most used fixture in a home but with proper use and regular maintenance, your toilet can last a long time.

Toilets no longer require external overflow pipes, which terminate to the outside of the building. This has been superseded by an internal overflow which allows excessive water to discharge directly into the toilet bowl.

What shouldn’t I flush down the toilet?

A great deal of blockages are caused by people flushing inappropriate things down the toilet and the home owner is ultimately responsible for clearing blockages caused by misuse, so it’s important to know what can’t be disposed of down the toilet:

No nappies, sanitary products, cotton wool etc.
Even wet wipes that are marketed as flushable can cause issues
Please do not pour any oil, solvent or flammable liquid down the drains. Check with your local authority to find out about their recycling and disposal facilities

It's important to understand that we cannot accept responsibility for sorting out problems due to misuse. If a basin or bath is slow to drain, please ensure you try a sink un-blocker before reporting a drainage problem. If you use a bleach block that affixes to the rim of the toilet bowl, please ensure that it is secure and cannot fall into the toilet trap (U-bend) as it may be difficult to retrieve. Check that a cistern type bleach block does not foul the operation of the filling and flushing mechanisms of your toilet. These types of toilet blocks may be corrosive. We will not be responsible for repairing any damage caused to the toilet fittings, fixtures or floor coverings as a result of using these products.

How do I fix a loose lid or toilet seat?

Fixing this is usually just a matter of simply tightening the nuts and bolts that hold the seat and lid in place. The toilet seat bolts may be visible, or they may be behind plastic covers that can be lifted away from the bolts, or gently prized up with a flat-bladed screwdriver. If the bolts have a slot for a screwdriver, it’s important to make sure that the seat and lid are properly aligned on the toilet and simply tighten clockwise, until the toilet seat is no longer loose.

Take care if the bolts are made of plastic, as over-tightening may cause them to break. If the bolts are turning without tightening you’ll need to hold the nut at the other end, under the toilet. Sometimes these are large and can be tightened by hand. For smaller types, you may need a pair of pliers to secure them while you tighten the bolts.

What do I do if the flush isn’t working?

There are several different flushing mechanisms so if your toilet isn’t flushing, there could be a number of different reasons for this. In which case, please report the issue to us.

What if there is continuous flushing?

Should a problem occur with the toilet flush continually running, please immediately turn off the water at the appliances individual isolation valve and report the issue to us. Please note we will not accept claims for excessive water bills.

Units

Cupboard doors have been made to withstand the normal wear and tear associated with everyday kitchen life. However, any spills should be wiped immediately and dried thoroughly. If you have spilt any oil-based substance such as butter or cooking oil, it should be wiped away immediately to prevent staining.

Avoid placing electric kettles, toasters and steamers directly below wall units and on worktop joints to minimise the effects of condensation. Doors and drawers should be wiped clean with warm water and a damp cloth containing a mild detergent, such as washing up liquid. You should avoid the use of scouring pads or wire wool and not use abrasive cleaning agents.

My kitchen drawers/doors need aligning, is this covered under the warranty?

Minor adjustments to your kitchen doors and drawers are not a defect and are considered normal home maintenance.

Kitchen cooker hoods

The hood is designed to catch grease and food particles, helping to keep the air in your kitchen clean and free from smells. It may simply be a filter, or it may extract air through the outside wall of your home. You might have one or two filters – either way, they will require a small amount of maintenance.

If your cooker hood vents air outside then the only part needing regular maintenance is the grill that sits across the face of the hood – a fine mesh through which all the air is sucked and which captures oil and small particles of food.

These usually simply unclip and drop down for cleaning. Wash gently with hot, soapy water to remove grease and oil deposits, and replace once completely dry. Please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions if you require further guidance.

If your cooker hood vents back into the room, there will also be a charcoal filter that removes strong odours and smoke from the extracted air.

This will need to be replaced periodically and in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. You should consult the manual provided for your cooker hood.

Sinks and stainless steel care

Stainless steel will offer good performance and long service life in your kitchen providing the correct maintenance is carried out. Stainless steels can stain and discolour due to surface deposits and so in order to achieve maximum corrosion resistance and aesthetic appeal, the surface of the stainless steel must be kept clean.

Follow these tips for the best performance from your stainless steel appliances:

Never chop food directly on your kitchen sink, or allow any sharp objects to grate against the surface
Grit can easily get embedded in the underside of plastic sink bowls that will gradually scratch and wear away your sink’s surface
Stainless steel sinks should be dried after use to prevent watermarks, and harsh or abrasive chemicals should not be used when cleaning
To brighten a dull stainless steel sink scrub it with a little bicarbonate of soda, then rinse with white vinegar followed by plenty of clean water
Finally, a buff with kitchen paper should keep your sink shiny.

My under-unit light bulbs need replacing, are these covered by my warranty?

Consumables such as light bulbs are classed as normal home maintenance and as such would not be covered by your warranty.

Other than shrinkage, condensation is the most commonly occurring effect of drying out in a new home.

It does not matter if the surface is horizontal or vertical, it can even be beneath a floor or wall covering or inside a wardrobe or cupboard.

Condensation occurs in new houses as a part of the normal drying out process. Your house can take a period of years to dry out completely.

To allow this water vapour to escape harmlessly, you should heat and ventilate your new home gently and consistently. Avoid peaks and troughs of temperature and leave windows and doors open each day as much as you can. Leave the trickle vents at the heads of the windows and patio door frames open to allow some air to circulate.

Damp patches at the sides of windows and patio doors are usually caused by condensation.

Leave doors to under stairs cupboards open to allow free circulation of air during the drying out period.

Condensation can build up on cold water feed pipes, including the cold feed pipe to the WC and can be mistaken for a leak.

In areas where you will be producing water vapour such as bathrooms and kitchens, try to remember to close doors while the water vapour producing activity is occurring e.g. cooking, washing, running baths and showers.

Ventilate these rooms as effectively as you can to avoid the vapour drifting into other areas of the house. Keep windows closed when using extractor fans.

Remember to close the doors and open the windows of rooms when water vapour is being produced to prevent vapour drifting to other areas of the house.

Avoid drying laundry or towels in the house, particularly on radiators. The difference in weight between the wet and dry washing represents the weight of water you will send into the atmosphere of the house.

Avoid opening the loft hatch.

Remember that gentle constant heat and frequent ventilation will help your new home dry out with fewer effects of condensation.

The best way to prevent condensation is to heat your home gently and ventilate at the same time.

Keep heating on at all times during cold weather, keep heating on low if the house is unoccupied during the day.

Intermittent heating will cause the condensation to be deposited as the air and the building’s surfaces cool down. Ventilation is required to get rid of that moisture, particularly in bedrooms, bathrooms and kitchens.

If you have a tumble drier, unless it is a condensing type, remember to vent it properly to open air.

If condensation has occurred:

Mop up as much as possible.
Heat the room to a constant, moderate temperature.
Open the window a little.
Keep the door shut

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